Buying attar in Srinagar: an honest guide

Where to buy attar in Kashmir, what you should be allowed to do before you pay, what the prices mean, and how to tell a decent oil from an expensive one. Written by a shop, so read it knowing that — but everything here is checkable, and most of it is about how to judge any counter, not only ours.

Attar is not a Kashmiri tradition. It is a Kashmiri habit.

Attar came here the way most things came here — along a trade route, from the Arab world and Persia, and it stayed because it fitted. In a valley that spends four months indoors, a fragrance that works on warm skin and lingers in a shawl makes more sense than one that evaporates off a shirt in an afternoon.

So you will find attar in Srinagar in places you would not expect: beside the perfume counters, in the shops around the mosques, at the back of general stores. The range is wide and so is the quality, and almost nothing is labelled in a way that helps you.

What you should be allowed to do before you pay

This is the whole of it. A fragrance cannot be judged from a bottle, a label, a photograph or a price, and anybody who sells it knows that. So in any shop worth your money:

  • You should be able to put it on your skin. Not a card, not a tissue — skin. Attar is oil and it reacts to the warmth and the chemistry of the person wearing it. The same bottle genuinely smells different on two people.
  • You should be able to walk away and come back. Attar changes over the first half hour. What you smell in the first ten seconds is not what you will be wearing at lunch. A shop that wants you to decide immediately is selling you the opening, not the fragrance.
  • You should not be made to buy. Trying three and leaving is a normal afternoon. Any pressure at that moment tells you something about what comes after the sale.
  • You should get a straight answer about what it is. Whether it is oil or spirit, what size you are buying, and what it costs per millilitre.

Nothing on that list is special to us. It is how you judge any fragrance counter, in Srinagar or anywhere else.

What the prices actually mean

Attar is sold in small bottles, which makes comparing prices harder than it should be. The number to work out is the price for each millilitre — a ₹349 bottle of 6ml and a ₹699 bottle of 12ml are the same fragrance at close to the same rate, and you buy the larger one only because you already know you like it.

Be careful of the opposite trap too. A very cheap attar is usually a fragrance oil cut heavily with a carrier, which is not dishonest in itself — plenty of good attar is blended — but it will not last, and the person selling it should say so when you ask.

For what it is worth, ours run from ₹249 to ₹699 depending on the fragrance and the size, and the perfume sprays from ₹449 to ₹899. Those are on the product pages, not held back until you are standing at the counter.

Attar or a spray?

Both, usually, for different jobs. Attar is oil with no alcohol in it: nothing flashes off in the first minute, it stays close to the skin, and it lasts longer. A spray opens bigger, carries further across a room, and goes on clothes as well as skin.

In a Srinagar winter the attar tends to win, because cold air holds a heavy oil against the skin instead of carrying it away. In summer a lot of people switch. There is a longer version of this in our attar versus perfume guide, and how to wear it properly in how to apply attar.

Three questions worth asking at any counter

  1. “Is this an oil or a spirit?” Attar is oil. If it is in a spray bottle and smells sharp as it leaves the nozzle, that is alcohol, and it is a perfume — which is fine, as long as you are told.
  2. “How long will this last on me?” Nobody can promise hours, and a number given confidently is a number somebody invented. What an honest answer sounds like: put it on, walk around for half an hour, and see.
  3. “What is it inspired by?” Many attars here are built in the style of well-known designer fragrances. That is ordinary and legitimate. What is not ordinary is being told it is the designer fragrance. A shop that says “inspired by” is telling you the truth about what you are buying.

If you are not in Srinagar

Buying fragrance you have never smelled is a gamble, and we would rather say that than pretend otherwise. Two things make it a smaller one: start with a 6ml attar rather than a large bottle, and read the note list rather than the description — notes are the closest thing to a factual account of what is in it.

We ship free anywhere in India, 2–3 days within Kashmir and 5–7 days elsewhere, with cash on delivery available if you would rather pay when it reaches you.

Where we are

Everything on this website sits on the shelf at our counter. If you are in the city, the easiest thing is to come and try a few on skin — there is no obligation, and we will tell you honestly which one suits you, including when the answer is none of them today.

Shafaaf Perfumes
Shop No. 2, Masjid Complex,
Masjid Abu Bakr, Magarmal Bagh,
Srinagar, Jammu and Kashmir 190009

Open every day, 9:30 am – 8:30 pm, including Sunday.

Get directions Call the shop See the attars